Something New and Something Old in Shanghai

Finally, we are here again. Not before a red eye flight that merits an endurance medal, but we have finally landed in Shanghai. And made it through the metro without losing any of the three pieces of luggage despite jostling with commuters out on a Saturday morning. And reasoned in vain with the hotel reception why we should be charged only what the agent-issued travel voucher said, and not more, for turning up early. But, we are glad.

Amazingly, despite our sleep deprivation and general fatigue on the first day, we managed to sample a taste of the old and new at two unique Shanghai spots. (Well, not so amazingly, we ended the day with cup noodles in the hotel room because we were too tired and cold!)

The first is a restaurant called the Red House at Central HuaiHai Road, in the heart of the French Concession Red House Restaurant. Featured in a travel-cum-food programme on Singapore TV recently, my interest was piqued that the writer Eileen Chang and the opera singer Mei Lan Fang were associated with this historical eatery. It is literally red on the outside, and sits along a what-i-can-imagine-to-be-lovely-leafy-boulevard-once-the-green-returns-and-the-grey-sky-turns-blue. But today, it is cold and windy, and the bare branches look somewhat forlorn. The Red House, too, has seen better days. There seems to be a certain dignity in accepting that it wasn't what it used to be and bravely adapt as best as it can. It banks on nostalgia now. And there is a market for it, so it seems.

There was a steady stream of patrons flowing in all the time we were there. Perhaps they liked the service, as we did. Or the ambience, as we also did. And of course the food, it beat any Western food we had eaten in Singapore in the same price range. If we could drift into satisfied slumber there and then, we would (well, almost did) -- but TaiKang Road beckons...

There is still a working wet market at TaiKang Road in the French Concession. Neighbour to a flourishing art district. There are people buying and selling fresh meat, seasonal vegetables, artsy photographs and curious sculptures in one locality. The art district itself is a maze of alleys, where converted traditional residential houses showcase artistic talent. Some turns actually lead you to the backdoor to real homes, laundry and all. It was quite amazing that a cluster of old, weathered houses has been revived into a thriving and throbbing centre of activity. Tellingly, both locals and tourists descend on this charming spot; friends meet for tea, shop for gifts, shutterbugs point and shoot; tourists get a bite of history and then a drink of beer. Even getting lost in the labyrinth can be delightful.

But then the wind chill bitterly reminded us how underdressed we wear, and it was time to head back to the hotel for shelter. Did I mention that the camera acted up like a cold car engine? Hope the weather gets warmer. Take care!